Showing posts with label wine tasting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine tasting. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Napa Misses the Mark



On my first trip to Napa (just about four years ago, to the date), I embraced the valley. It embraced me, planted a warm, sloppy kiss right on my wine-stained lips, and slipped me a little tongue-

Granted, I still had some hair on my head back then, and I was benefitting from a post-wedding build, necessary to wedge myself into the big day's tuxedo. Perhaps Napa couldn't resist-

But my (swiftly) fading looks are inconsequential. The point is that the Napa Valley- it's wines, it's sweeping vistas, and it's intoxicating charm- got my panties in a wad. I had no idea wine of such quality existed. Like being ensnared in an awkward teenage infatuation, I'd fallen in love with, become obsessed with, the fermented grape. And like any first kiss, particularly if it was shockingly good, my experience in Napa has imprinted my soul and changed my life forever.

So, any time I hear of friends or neighbors heading out for the first time, I get a little geeked up. I become a pro bono travel agent. I send emails documenting places to visit that make my longest ramblings here seem shorter than Charlie Sheen tweets (and the emails are twice as maniacal). I get into this frenzy because I can't wait for others to experience what I did. "They'll finally get it," I think. "They'll understand why I'm psychotic. They may come home psychotic, too. We can be psychotic together."

Yet, when folks return and tell me they have "no desire to go back to Napa", I'm admittedly a bit taken aback. A lot taken aback, and that's a ton, because I'm not even sure what that saying means. Naturally, I'm inclined to pry.

My neighbors just got back from a trip, and they felt that everything was very expensive. Yes, Napa can be expensive. They mentioned $25 tasting fees. Hmm... more than I remember paying. No big deal, those fees can easily be neutralized by the purchase of a bottle. Tasting fees are always credited towards purchase, right?

Nope. But the fiscal raping was not even the worst thing I heard. "They didn't tell us anything about the wines. We didn't learn anything. They just shoved a sheet of tasting notes in front of us and told us what was on special." Oh, you dirty bastards.

Now, let me go on the record and say that my "facts" are based on anecdotal evidence. I can't say first-hand that any of this occurred. But I don't think these are vindictive folks, and I honestly believe they were met with disappointment. I'm not going to name the wineries in question, but I was able- in order to validate some of the story- visit some completely random websites: non-specified Napa winery #1, non-specified Napa winery #2, and non-specified Napa winery #3, and I confirmed that tasting fees range from $15-25 a pop. Why not just buy a bottle at that price? Rather, my friends paid $30-$50 to taste five or so small pours, then spent another $30 on a bottle. All-in-all, they traveled across the country, rented a car, drove to the proprietor's place of business, got zero education and experience, and paid $60 for a $30 bottle of wine. So much for the value of cutting out the middle-man... and the warm fuzzies towards wine country.

Listen, I understand that these places have a lot of overhead. I know that many tasting rooms thrive on tasting fees. But we're talking some pretty heavy-hitters here. I'm sure Beringer and Mondavi don't keep the lights on with tasting fees. Not when they're producing millions of bottles per year. So why not evangelize? These two spots put Napa on the map. In fact, Robert Mondavi virtually invented the American fine wine industry. The large vintners should be creating wine consumers for life, not scaring them off in the name of a quick buck.

And if what I heard about no education is true, then shame on these wineries. They've perpetuated the mystifying nature of wine. I subscribe to the notion that people warm to what is understood and familiar. If they don't know what they're drinking, then they're probably not going to buy it, whether the taste costs $0.50 or $50.

I understand this scenario is not that case with all Napa wineries. I'm lucky to know some really terrific people in Napa, from winery personnel to PR folks to growers themselves. I can confirm that some are educating the eager masses, sharing their best, and using the tasting rooms to convert skeptics, sell bottles, and make customers for life. But how can their reputations not suffer when the biggest and brightest in the market- the standard-bearers for America's most celebrated wine region- are actively participating in screwing up a huge opportunity and alienating potential wine drinkers?

Hit the mark next time, Napa. It could pay dividends in the long run. Connect with your tasting room customers. Educate them. And please don't rip them off because they simply don't know better. Make out with their thirst for knowledge like you're making out with Mariah Carey on a red carpet at some undisclosed Nickelodeon event. Because that would be awesome. And a little weird. But certainly not disappointing.

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Now hang on one hot minute.


Last week, I jabbed a thumb in the eye of wine-tasting protocol, using a popular technique of the insecure: sarcasm. It was a joke. In all seriousness, I adore when the person next to me at a tasting gives me the business for not picking up the delicate hints of porpoise dander in the Wild Irish Rose we're sipping...

...wait, was that sarcasm? It doesn't translate well in print, does it?

Anyway, I was having some fun with embellishment on many things I'd heard at tastings. The vast majority of ridiculous statements at wine tastings involve proclamations of unbelievably obscure smells and tastes. However, despite my snark, I honestly believe there can be tremendous value in learning telltale aromas and flavors in wine, as well as probing for new ones.

Cool out! Let me explain this perceived one-eighty.

There's nothing wrong with a frame-of-reference. I strongly subscribe to the notion that a better understanding of a recreational activity makes it far more enjoyable, whether that be watching a hockey game, smoking a brisket, or shooting pool against a guy whose first name is "Detroit". You ain't winning against a guy named "Detroit". I bet he brought his own two-piece pool cue to the table, didn't he? But you didn't have a keen understanding of that. And now you are broke, and likely wounded by knife.

But back to my point. Part of the fun of wine is being able to stick you nose in it and smell apples, chocolate, green pepper, etc. Science has often lauded the strength of olfactory memory, so tasters already have brains full of familiar smells. It's always fun to pick one of those out when sniffing a glass. Case in point: my friend, absurdly talented writer, and professional wine slinger Samantha (of The Wine Country in Long Beach, CA) recently got me on the fast-track to debt by introducing me to "grower" Champagne. These bottlings feature grapes both grown (thus the name) and bottled by the producer, something rare among the big Champagne houses, who usually buy their grapes from other growers to produce their Veuve Clicquots and Dom Perignons. Grower certainly isn't cheap, but can really bring some value if you're looking for incredibly complex flavors and aromas in your everyday $60-80 bottle of sparkling wine (see previous comment about imminent debt).

The last bottle I had was a 2004 Marcel Moineaux Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs. 100% Chardonnay ("blanc de blancs" tells you that), and darn tasty. But here's why I bring this whole mess up: that stinkin' wine smelled exactly, EXACTLY like hot, fresh Krispy Kreme donuts. In an instant, some stupid little glass of wine transported me back to Saturdays as a kid. After playing rec basketball games at Roswell, Georgia's Waller Park- nothing more than a rusty shed with some hoops on the walls at the time- the old man would often take my brother and I by the Krispy Kreme on the corner to pick up a revitalizing post-game donut. At this point, the Champagne had become more; I wasn't just drinking an alcoholic beverage. I was triggering a strong olfactory memory that added tremendously to the experience. Pretty cool, huh? Of course, then the smell further triggered memories of how bad I was at basketball, and I got depressed. At that point, the alcohol was ready to serve its needed purpose.


Similarly, having familiar olfactory reference points can enhance the enjoyment of wine. Like I said earlier: having a better understanding of something will often improve the interactive experience. However, the operative word here is "familiar", and that's where I have my big ol' bugaboo. When I hear someone say "organic tangerine blossoms" instead of "citrus"; "overripe peels of fuji apple" instead of "apple"; "petrol" instead of "gasoline" (at least in the States); "Japanese violet" instead of "floral"; "yearling antelope droppings" instead of "poop"... man, I tend to get a little irritated. Yes, there is a tiny percentage of the wine-drinking population that has trained its palate to such sensitivity that differences in types of specific fruit, spice, etc. are perceptible. They're downright freaks of nature. However, for 99% of the population, more general descriptors will not only assist in recognizing flavors in aromas, but will also not alienate novices and make them feel inferior. I'm convinced that most of that obscure, overly-descriptive blather is designed to elevate said blatherers' senses of themselves, while simultaneously causing doubt and confusion among less-pretentious tasters. In more clear terms, those people are irritating assholes.

Here's the takeaway: wine education and sensory frames-of-reference are good, and they can help everyone heighten enjoyment of an incredible beverage. Even very advanced descriptors can be helpful, as long as they are honest (not contrived or regurgitated from a wine publication) and meant only to improve the experience for all...

Of course, maybe you never got to eat a Krispy Kreme donut as a kid. Does that make me an asshole? Probably.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

How to act at a Wine Tasting


Want to project the appearance of a consummate pro? Yearn to demonstrate the value of your Wine Spectator subscription?

It's time to get SERIOUS about wine, because wine is no laughing matter. It's all about appreciation, and appreciation is about knowing a lot of French words, filling a mental library with obscure fruits, and having a descriptive lexicon fit for MENSA.

Don't fit the bill? Sorry, it's going to be tough for you to enjoy wine the proper way. However, being able to act the part will at least spare you some well-deserved embarrassment in the hallowed presence of wine and its deserving experts.

I've created a cheat-sheet of phrases for you poor souls who aren't good enough to enjoy wine. Memorize these phrases for the next wine tasting you attend. DO NOT DEVIATE from these phrases, and you might- someday- be able to call yourself a wine expert.

1. "Sacre bleu! This Gigondas is so redolent of garrigue."

2. "I don't drink New World plonk."

3. "A flamboyant bouquet of lychee and sandalwood... this is textbook Gewurztraminer."

4. "Ooooh. This wine just screams for braised jackrabbit haunches."

5. "It's as if they took my childhood summers in Provence and put them in a glass. Don't you agree?"

6. "This is an excellent expression of Rheingau terroir. I only drink terroir-driven wines."

7. "Piedmont?! Last time I checked, the Italians called it 'Piemonte'."

8. "French oak barriques are the only way to go, as long as they come from Alliers."

9. "This reminds me of the wines I used to drink."

10. "I don't just drink wine. I appreciate it."

...

...

...

But then again, at times, some of us just want to drink boxed wine out of an empty beer can.


Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Follow Your Nose

I don't really know why I chose a previous post to wail and gnash my teeth about a procedure I had where the inside of my nose was rooted out like that slow drain at your favorite seaside motor inn on the fabulous boardwalk of Myrtle Beach. Could it have been a clever scheme to trick you into visiting another page on my site? Perhaps. I'm that shameless. Irregardless, this subject (the nose) is one of profound importance, especially if your pursuits include an appreciation for wine.

Surely we've all had the thought: what's with all the pretension associated with tasting wine? If it's indeed the "tasting" we're after, practical thought would dictate that simply slugging down that glass of Cabernet, swallowing, and determining whether it tastes good or not should suffice. And yet, there's always seems to be this goofy tool- found anywhere a cork is popped or a delicious Boone's Farm Strawberry Hill is gently quaffed from a paper bag on Bourbon Street:


Your author. Goofy tool emeritus.

The holding of the glass up against the light. The swirling. The description of "legs" and "viscosity" and "hue". And the sniffing. Oh, the sniffing. It seems to go on for hours. When is this jerk going to drink the stuff? Certainly he didn't get that impressive double-chin by smelling his way to a life of "relaxed fit" jeans.

For those who feel this way about the consumption of wine, I can understand why many of you don't really care for the stuff. Why pay $20, $30, $50 clams for something that can often taste bitter, acidic, earthy, tannic (the "fuzzy" feeling that sometimes occurs when drinking a particularly heavy red wine), and that has nary a hint of the sweet, fruit-filled flavors you've known when eating a grape? Indeed most wines- especially fine wines- bear little-to-no resemblance to fruit punch. Perhaps that's why Arbor Mist is so popular. I mean, what better way to wash down the bitter taste of crystal meth? Fruity, boozy Arbor Mist: preferred 2 to 1 by meth-heads everywhere.

-With all due respect to pseudo-celebrity Beetlejuice (right), I can't say for sure that he's a meth guy. Probably Arbor Mist, though-

But I digress. The point I'm trying to make is that if you do have ANY interest in learning more about vino, then it's the aromas- far more so than the taste- that I passionately feel will get you hooked. Think about it- the sense of taste can only detect 5 things: salinity (if you get a salty wine, something has gone HORRIBLY wrong), sweetness, bitterness, acidity, and umami- a relatively new flavor profile that can best be described as "savory" or "meaty".

Mmmmm...meaty.

If you rely on these 5 only, you're going to be left very disappointed. However, the olfactory system is able to detect thousands of scents and compounds. In fact, if you ever really "taste" something other than those 5 mentioned, then it's the work of the nose in conjunction with your chewing (or swishing). If you don't believe me, try the old trick where you take a piece of apple and a piece of raw potato, pinch your nose with a closepin, and eat them. I'm telling you: harder to tell apart than a Michael Bay summertime box office crapfest from a Jerry Bruckheimer summertime box office pile of hot garbage.

So, the next time you pour yourself a glass of juice, take a minute to stick your nose in it. Swirl it if you want; this gets some oxygen into the wine, making the volatile aromas airborne, heightening the experience. Yeah, you've heard the pretentious, goofy tools throw out "fuji apple, lychee nut, white peach, honeysuckle, violets, orange blossoms, blah, blah, blah." Now, in their defense, those who really train their nose can pick these subtleties out, and know that a fuji apple smells different than a granny smith.

But if you're starting out, don't get hung up on all this. I often argue that some experts have heard these "key descriptors" so many times that they've tricked themselves into pulling them out of a wine. Believe me- I've done it myself. The most important thing is to trust your nose. If you smell strawberries, then that's what the wine smells like. If you smell poop (which happens!), then that's what the wine smells like. Don't let someone tell you what you need to be smelling. Your nose is your nose. The "expert" might suggest some scents to look for, and that can help you pick them out. The olfactory memory is pretty amazing; you'll be surprised what you can detect with a little sleuthing. And if you want to get to the point where you can detect "white peach" from "plum" or "horse poo" from "sheep poo", then you can certainly train yourself. Don't think you have to be born with a great sense of smell! Here are some great resources if you want to get serious (you're on your own with the horse/sheep poo thing):

1. Gary Vaynerchuk: The undisputed king of Web 2.0 runs a great website, winelibrary.tv, with far more than a cult-following. He did a great video on tons of flavors you can use to train the palette. Sure, he's eating instead of smelling, but it gives you a great idea of the flavors that can be found in wine: Episode #148: How to get your palette trained

2. If you've got a bunch of dough to throw around, Le Nez Du Vin makes some great kits that have the concentrated aromas of wine in little bottles: http://www.winearomas.com/

3. The best way: go to the grocery store. Go to the local nursery (plants, not babies). Stick your nose in the fruit. Stick your nose in the vegetables. Stick your nose in the flowers. Yeah, you may look like a freak, but let's be honest: you look like a freak anyway.

Remember: start with your nose, and you're well on your way to a truly greater appreciation of wine. And if you can't smell, I know a good doc who can root you out.