Showing posts with label macedonia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label macedonia. Show all posts
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Perfect Strangers
Disclaimer: the wine I'm writing about in this post was given to me as a sample from the very smart and handsome folks at Two Friends Imports.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the Dynamic Duo. They're the Gruesome Twosome. They go together like peanut butter and jelly, meat and potatoes, catfishing and MGD, pulled pork and coleslaw, cocaine and Lindsay Lohan, football and chicken wings, and/or Ponch and Jon. Yeah, you know: your favorite CHiPs, keeping the highways safe, the streets clean, and the ladies frisky. And they do it in perfect harmony with one another...Erik Estrada's powerful and undeniable machismo paired with Larry Wilcox' smooth-as-Parkay, California-surfer cool. Power and Smoothness. Sounds like Cab and Merlot to me.
Okay, this is gonna get weird, so bear with me. Let's say you take Ponch and Jon and combine them into one entity. Cab and Merlot so often work together in the wine world, so it's not too much of a stretch. Now let's draw a very odd metaphor, calling this single entity "Larry Appleton" (aka Mark Linn-Baker's character on Perfect Strangers). Sure, Larry was neurotic and not quite the milk-drinking stallion you'd expect from a Ponch/Jon love child, but the metaphor has to work. Why? Because you then take this Cab/Merlot/Larry Appleton creation, and throw a proverbial Balki Bartokomous into the mix: Vranec. Awkward on the surface (and difficult to pronounce), this pairing, in the end, is really a case of "perfect strangers" (see, it all came together neatly...sort of).
Such is the 2006 Bovin Alexandar. A proprietary (basically, meaning I don't know the percentages) blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Vranec from the Tikves wine region of Macedonia. Thanks to the generosity of Two Friends Imports, I've been able to post about Macedonian wines a couple times: here talking about Cab and Chardonnay, and here talking about a varietal Vranec bottling (and Ravishing Rick Rude). Overall (especially for the price points), I've been pretty impressed at all the Bovin offerings, and I'd not hesitate to purchase them for serving to friends or giving as gifts. That's an honest opinion, not a sell out. I'd hope my integrity's worth more than a $13 bottle of wine (okay, barely).
In the snout, I got some serious barnyard at first. Barnyard, aka "horse blanket", aka "poop", is not really a bad thing in wine. To me, it's an expression of terroir, and it's something that can be pretty common in "old world" (meaning "European") wines. Shortly after, that barnyard blew off a bit and opened up very pleasant smells of blueberries (something I get from Merlot a lot), blackberries, cassis (basically, the smell of Cabernet Sauvignon), earth, charcoal, dark cocoa, and spice. I also got this really distinct smell of concord grapes, as if I was smelling a glass of Welch's grape juice. Sure, it doesn't sound very impressive to say a grape-based spirit smells like grapes, but I'm not a very impressive person. It was there, okay? Get off my back.
In the mouth, the wine was very dry, with restrained flavors of black fruits (blackberries, plums, etc.), with some pepper mixed in. It was pretty smooth, but structured with some tannins (courtesy of the Cab and Vranec, no doubt). It was actually pretty austere and reserved in the mouth, and a little hot (alcoholic) and bitter on the back end. Although I drank it alone (as in without food...okay, I was by myself too), the wine's subtleties told me that it would be very good with a meal. Preferably a meal with meats. Tasty red meats. The kind your doctor tells you not to have all the time. He's probably telling you not to have wine all the time, either, so binge all at once, then go eat a carrot or something.
So, once again, Bovin brings some nice value. For a bottle priced in the low-to-mid teens, you could blow the lid off of a California wine with a marketable name. If you're into big, fruity wines (Red Zinfandel, Australian Shiraz, California Cabernet), the Alexandar will certainly be a change of pace. However, the more you get into wine, the more you may appreciate more elegance and terroir in your glass (especially if serving with food).
Distribution's still pretty sparse for Macedonian wine, but if you're in Atlanta, you can find Bovin Alexandar (and other wines) at The Mercantile, Cheers Beer & Wine, and Your Dekalb Farmers Market. You can also ask for it to be ordered at Whole Foods or Harry's Farmers Markets.
If you're well-heeled and get to eat out (I'm pretty much no-heeled at this point), ask for Bovin at Vinocity Wine Bar in Kirkwood or Parker's on Ponce in Decatur- what I'm told is a very good and locally-owned steakhouse (I'd have more info if I'd been there...refer to "no-heeled" comment).
Bottom-line: if you get your hands on some of this wine, you may do the "Dance of Joy" (it's a Balki thing). And I will toast you: Cheers, Sláinte, L'Chaim, Salud, Prost, Skål, Konbe, Kampai, and Laissez les bon temps rouler!
Labels:
alexandar,
bovin,
cabernet sauvignon,
CHiPs,
macedonia,
merlot,
Perfect Strangers,
red wine,
vranec,
wine
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Find Your Stallion
"What I'd like to have now is for all you high-rollin', Bordeaux-drinkin' sweathogs to keep the noise down while I take my robe off and show all you female sommeliers the sexiest wine alive. Hit the music!"Okay, it's a stretch...not the "sexiest wine alive", but I've lately been obsessed with making Ravishing Rick Rude references. I mean, let's cut to the core here, folks. If you were a young lady in the eighties, what wouldn't you love about The Ravishing One? The brash attitude, the nimble hips, the Hardy Wallace mustache, and the irresistable curly-fro mullet...truly, the late great Rick Rude was a stallion.
And how apropos to the subject at hand. Let it be known to all FCC operatives monitoring this site that I recently received a sample from Two Friends Imports of 2007 Bovin Vranec (pronounced vranetz), the "black wine of Macedonia". In fact, "vranec" is Macedonian for "black stallion". You see, this sloppy metaphor is finally coming together.
I opened it on Friday night, and the first taste pretty much bit my face off. Imagine a horse; a powerful, Mickey Rooney-trained black stallion, literally biting your face off. It was nothing like that. I just meant it was big and tannic, and the nose was very tight..couldn't smell much. Relax. I still have my face. But my intact face and I decided to put it in a decanter for a couple hours and see what happened.
The nose opened up a little after a spell, but it was definitely old-world, meaning more subtle and not overpowering with fruit and alcohol. I got some fruits: cranberries, blueberries, and plums, but they were hiding behind terroir smells of herbs, charcoal, tar, and black and white pepper. Since I've been on an Aussie kick lately, it was a pleasant surprise to get a subtle European nose that didn't get me drunk just by smelling it.
In the mouth, I got more cranberries, dark fruit, decent acidity, spice, and fistfuls of pepper, with a solid backbone of bitter tannin.

Baby Steps: Tannins are phenolic compounds found in the skins, seeds, and stems of grapes, as well as in the oak barrels in which many wines are aged. The add bitterness to wine, as well as a tactile sensation that makes your mouth feel "fuzzy" or dry. Tannins are often purposely extracted from the grapes to add more structure to the wine, and they also can help wine age better. Some of the most tannic grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz, Nebbiolo, and Tannat.
The finish was pretty long, and the drying effect of the tannins made me want to wet my whistle again. I almost feel like this wine is a Syrah/Cabernet Franc/Merlot hybrid, but with better acidity. Hudson, who provided me the sample, said this was his "BBQ" wine, and he'd love to pair it with a whole roast lamb. I'd have to say I agree wholeheartedly.
So, if you're looking for something you've probably never had, head out and try to find some Vranec. I think it'd be a nice wine to have as the weather gets colder. At the very least, it'd be a very easy way to bring that stallion into your life at last. I'd have to say that it beats the alternative:
Ah, l'amour...I'll toast to that, and I'll do it in Macedonian: Na Zdravje!
Labels:
bovin,
macedonia,
ravishing rick rude,
video dating,
vranec,
wine,
wrestling
Monday, July 27, 2009
Bombs over Negotino: Macedonia and the Dirty South, together at last

Refreshing, full disclosure: the wines tasted in this post were samples provided by the fine folks at Two Friends Imports.
So, with all this history of winemaking, surely they'd be making some good stuff? Well, the locals are certainly giving it a go, especially in the Tikveš region, near the town of Negotino. How 'bout a handy map:
View Larger Map
Here, in the central part of Macedonia, they're dealing with primarily a "Mediterranean" climate (read: hot and dry), which is perfect for grape-growing. Along with popular local varieties like Vranec, they're growing many "classic" varieties, such as Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. And, thanks to the intrepid efforts of the guys at Two Friends Import Co., we've got these unusual wines in Georgia (thus, the clever Macedonia/Outkast theme of the post. Li'l Jon would've also been acceptable, but I didn't know how to say "YEAH!" in the local tongue).
Bovin 2008 Tikveš Region Chardonnay: Bovin has been making wine since 1998, and they're currently producing about 80,000 cases annually. Among those, this 13.7% ABV Chardonnay.
Bovin 2006 Tikveš Region Cabernet Sauvignon: At 13% ABV, I expected this to be lighter-bodied. However, coming from a region that regularly hits 104° F, I thought I'd get something that kicked me in the teeth. Frankly, I was torn on what I would get. Luckily, that mystery was about to be solved.
Verdict: Not quite the freight-train that the Chardonnay was, but a nice wine that I would take down with some roasted chicken (or by itself). Also priced in the teens (I believe... someone please correct me if I'm wrong here), I think you could do a lot worse.
My final analysis: if this is the first stuff coming to the states from Macedonia, we've got a lot to be excited about. This quality, at these price points, is exactly how you can still drink good wine in a tough economy. But most importantly, it's great to try new things. You can really surprise yourself sometimes and find some gems. And if you buy a bottle of Macedonian wine (click here for a list of spots in Georgia), someone in that country will probably do a dance...and I bet they've got some pretty sweet dance moves there.
Macedonia. Just the whisper; the mere utterance of the word makes any wine lover go "huh?" Yeah, we all think of France, Italy, Spain, and Germany in the grand pantheon of European wines, but rarely this small Republic that was once part of what made up Yugoslavia. Odd we don't know anything about this wine region: while the "big four" have been under vine since the Roman times, the folks in Macedonia were kicking viticulture when the Greeks ruled the world- long before Julius Caesar got worked over like a pack of smokes at an A.A. meeting.
So, with all this history of winemaking, surely they'd be making some good stuff? Well, the locals are certainly giving it a go, especially in the Tikveš region, near the town of Negotino. How 'bout a handy map:
View Larger Map
Here, in the central part of Macedonia, they're dealing with primarily a "Mediterranean" climate (read: hot and dry), which is perfect for grape-growing. Along with popular local varieties like Vranec, they're growing many "classic" varieties, such as Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. And, thanks to the intrepid efforts of the guys at Two Friends Import Co., we've got these unusual wines in Georgia (thus, the clever Macedonia/Outkast theme of the post. Li'l Jon would've also been acceptable, but I didn't know how to say "YEAH!" in the local tongue).
Anyway, I got to dunk my whiskers into a couple bottles over the weekend, and here's what I thought:
Nose: Lots of fruit: cantaloupe, ripe apple, pineapple, grapefruit, plus a VERY pleasant honey-butter aroma, and just a hint of oakiness and minerality. I'll tell you, I'm not generally a big fan of Chardonnay. Too often, it reeks of oak and vanilla, and this just masks fake-smelling fruit flavors...probably why the cheap stuff is served ice-cold so you can't smell the shame. But this nose is just pretty...everything is balanced and subtle (but definitely there), and- dammit- it just WORKS, at least for me.
Taste: Admittedly, my smellin' notes are usually better than my tastin' notes. We'll give it a go anyway. This wine is silky, with flavors of lime, buttered (slightly burnt) toast, and grapefruit. The finish was nutty (almonds, maybe?), and I counted to 20 before I couldn't taste the wine anymore. I thought it was a little hot (alcoholic) on the finish, but overall, things were in nice balance. I even came back and drank some at room temperature the next day, and things were still balanced and there was no evidence of flaw...it was actually incredible the next day.
Verdict: knowing that this wine retails for under $15, it is an ABSOLUTE STEAL. There's so much underwhelming Chardonnay from California at that price point (or more), and this drinks much more like a $25-35 bottle. That's one of the great things about lesser-known countries: good quality for a great price. If you see this one, pick it up, and snag a bottle for me, you handsome devil.
In the glass, this was one of the lightest-colored Cabs I've seen in a while. It almost looked like a Pinot Noir.
Nose: Heinz 57, raisins, pickles, black currant, herbs, creamed corn, and a serious kick of raspberry sorbet. Trust me: this nose looks weird, but it's really cool to get all sorts of interesting things out of the aroma. The nose was really bright and rustic. Didn't remind me of Cab so much, but it was still quite pretty. Basically, between the color and the nose, this wine would've kicked my @ss in a blind tasting.
Taste: I wrote down "Cab for Pinot lovers." It was a little dull and flabby (as in "lacking acidity") at first, but I think this is just because I've come to expect big flavors, tons of tannin, and high alcohol from a Cabernet. The flavors were there: mostly berries and dark fruit. But the tannins were so soft; more like a new world Merlot. I feel like I could drink this on a hot day and not sweat my face off (the usual, flattering side-effect of me drinking a heavy red wine). It's officially "summertime Cabernet," and while it really threw me off, once I took it for what it was, I enjoyed it a lot more.
My final analysis: if this is the first stuff coming to the states from Macedonia, we've got a lot to be excited about. This quality, at these price points, is exactly how you can still drink good wine in a tough economy. But most importantly, it's great to try new things. You can really surprise yourself sometimes and find some gems. And if you buy a bottle of Macedonian wine (click here for a list of spots in Georgia), someone in that country will probably do a dance...and I bet they've got some pretty sweet dance moves there.
Until next time, Cheers, Sláinte, Salud, Prost, Skål, Konbe, and Kampai!
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