Showing posts with label chianti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label chianti. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

On Babies, Work, and Wine


Disclaimer: I assure that this blog will continue to focus on wine and food, with some beer mixed in. Maybe some whiskey and riverboat gambling. Atomic leg drops and 80's-style tight-rolled jeans. It will not be hijacked by babies and baby-related happenings. There are plenty of mommy-bloggers out there to fill that doodoo-scented corner of cyberspace. If early indicators (posts titled "Babies are so cute and silly" and/or "What my daughter did today, part 17") become disturbing trends, please bite down on the cyanide capsule and think about rabbits.



Seems pretty harmless, huh? Some might say adorable. Cute. Cuddly. A miracle.

Well, she is. And the picture tells the story of how my little daughter's got me completely wrapped around her tiny, slobbery finger.

But what this "awwww"-inducing piece of photography doesn't show is that she is a terror. Not that she's a bad baby. There's a delightful laziness to her (meaning she's not afraid of a little sleep), and from what I've heard, this kid is pretty low-maintenance by baby-standards...

Keeping in mind that "baby-standards" are absurdly high. I'm exhausted. Previously, exhaustion meant that rest ensued. Refueling and recharging to tackle life's next challenge. But this one needs constant monitoring. Extremely tired? Well, suck it up, because it's time to entertain the li'l critter so mom can get some rest (who's been with her all day).

Factor in a full, soul-shattering day at the office, a bruising Atlanta commute, and the last thing that is on one's mind is sitting down between the hours of 11 PM and 2 AM and putting together blog posts, interacting on Twitter, reading the efforts of other bloggers, and promoting one's self and said bloggers on Facebook.

More likely, it's "catch some damn sleep- or sleep equivalent- while you can, because Life isn't gonna slow down tomorrow for you to nap."

Not surprisingly, drinking wine- which so happens to be a bit critical in formulating good content on a wine blog- is not what it used to be either. Ever thought, "I'm gonna knock back a few bottles, then go juggle a nuclear device in my hands"? Granted, binge-drinking is not so much an issue (the party days have slowed down), but being able to relax with a glass and really immerse in the experience is somewhat hamstrung by a squeak, a belch, a fart, or one of the hundreds of other [admittedly, awesome] bodily functions coming out of a baby. Wine becomes less of an experience, and more of a reward for doing battle with the most unlikely of adversaries.

Fortunately, those who are grizzled veterans of that battle generously come to aide at times. Understanding the demands on schedule, an occasional meal shows up in the hands of compassionate neighbors, family, and friends. The extremely compassionate (and handsome and food-savvy, I might add) supply wine as well. Most recently, some terrific neighbors delivered the ultimate comfort: a pan of homemade baked ziti and a bottle of Chianti. From what I gather (being neither Italian, nor having traveled there), the meal to the Italian is the apex expression of love. Simple, honest, and made with care. I can't think of anything more appropriate than a plate of pasta and the rustic goodness of the sangiovese grape to complement the meal. In fact, wine on the Italian table is as essential as salt, plates, or even the food itself (or, as one Italian winemaker once told me, "wine is a condiment"). And when the last thing on one's mind is preparing a meal and cleaning up after it, such a gesture- a hot meal with an appropriate "condiment"- is such a boost for the weary parent.

With that in mind, as we try to figure out our dramatic change in Life, it's tremendously humbling to know we're in others' thoughts. Here's to great friends, a beautiful family, a full belly, and an empty glass...

...hmm, better fill up that glass. The kid is starting to get cranky.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Classic Pairings 102: Chianti & Pizza Pie


Originally, it was Coke, Sprite, or root beer. Then, somewhere along the way, the "root" was lost in translation, and the harder stuff- likely a cheap domestic brew- became the poison of choice. Sure, by themselves they were adequate (especially the beer, in quantities I wish not to, nor probably can I, remember), but when paired with the quintessential gathering food- pizza- our drinks become more than thirst-quenchers or buzz-generators. Pizza has always been Friday nights, college post-bar scene, simple, honest, rustic, and satisfying. Seems fitting the drink along with it would fit the bill as well.


Perhaps that's why Chianti has long been the perfect match for a flat of dough with some stuff on it. With all due respect for malted barley and hops, Chianti, and the Sangiovese grape from whence it's vinted, tends towards rustic, honest, and unpretentious. And I guess that's why the two make such a classic pairing. Either that, or like so many groups of students scarfing down slices at 4 AM seeking one last shot of loudmouth soup, some Italian kids found it in the pantry as a last-resort libation, and the rest- as they say- is history.

Not quite as desperate, but equally as hungry (as is often the case), we fired up the oven to its inadequate 500+ degrees, procured some dough from a local bakery (I'm not confident enough in my homemade dough, or baking in general at this point), and sourced a cornucopia of fresh veggies and tasty, fattening meats. A quick preparation of canned Italian plum tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, fresh basil, dried oregano, pulverized fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and sugar (in secret proportions, or more accurately, in quantities I neither remember nor wrote down) yielded a flavorful base-coat for our discs of punched-down and flattened out dough (none of which ended up on the ceiling, as far as my wife knows). We then went to work- Picassos and Rembrandts in our own minds- layering buffalo mozzarella, pecorino, hot sausage, sopressata, pepperoni, cappicola, spinach, onions, green pepper, kalamata olives, anchovies, hot peppers, sliced tomatoes, dollops of marscapone, or whatever else we could find. Brushed the edges with some extra virgin, a sprinkle of salt or crack of pepper, and into the blistering oven for 8 minutes (convinced a wood-burning outdoor oven that reaches 1000 degrees would be a necessary purchase in the future).


In the end, given the equipment, the pizzas turned out great. Especially the crust, which really in the most important part of a good pie. Ours were crunchy on the outside, soft and chewy on the inside. The flavorful sauce, rich meats, and runny cheeses melded to create a familiar taste of comfort. They called for a wine of equal simplicity. We poured Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico, and the clear (but subtle) cherry, orange peel, and herb flavors, along with bright acidity worked great to counterbalance the firecracker of tangy tomatoes, italian herbs, yeasty dough, spicy meats, charred veggies, and unctuous cheese...

...I thought I'd never use the word "unctuous". I struggled for ten minutes trying to think of something else. Sorry.

Anyway, this was no time to dwell on the flavors and aromas of the wine. Chianti is meant to be DRUNK, much like pizza isn't often savored like haute cuisine. All the more reason why the two go together so well. Acidity brings flavors out of food, and it helps balance fat. Needless to say, pizza has both in spades (flavor and fat), and Sangiovese is- like many Italian wines- big on acidity. They're designed for food, and they deliver big time. Maybe not the best wines on their own, but as a "condiment at the table" (as one Italian winemaker once described it), Italian wine, and Chianti especially, finds its comfort zone....

...just like a 2nd year journalism major on a couch in a stupor at 4 A.M., half-eaten box of Domino's by his side.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

'Zas, Brah.

Well, I'm backed up a day due to the crimes against humanity perpetrated by my hotel last night, but I'm just gonna bump things back a day.

So, without further ado, the video from this past weekend's pizza night at the Casa del Wino, which is going to segway nicely into "Classic Pairings 102: Chianti as 'Za"

Mangia!



Monday, August 31, 2009

Pair like a (semi) Pro

Having duped a few folks into thinking I'm an oenological expert via the awesome power of the interweb, I was recently charged with wine pairings for a meal my mom-in-law was preparing.

First course: Simple mixed greens with a mustardy vinaigrette

Second course: Maple-glazed pork tenderloin, chantilly potatoes gratin, Grand Marnier carrots

Dessert: Peach cobbler a la mode

Plans laid out, I went to work. While I'm by no means a pairing expert, there are a few I guidelines I subscribe to that can make the experience more enjoyable. While the #1 pairing guideline is "drink what you like with what you like to eat, and 'rules' be damned," I like a lot of different wine and a lot of different food (it's my cross to bear), so I opt to go a little further. Here are a couple pointers I keep in my back pocket when trying to find the perfect "food" wine. Remember: these are "pointers", not rules. Like Outback Steakhouse, there are no rules...

...I bet there really are rules at Outback Steakhouse. Do you think I could walk in there, eat, then leave without paying? Upon being confronted by management, I'd simply claim that I chose their establishment because I didn't have time for "rules", such as paying for said meal. I also wonder if someone has ever taken their pants off while eating at Outback...

...anyway- blokes and shielas- onto the pointers:

Very loose pointer #1) Very high alcohol wines are better drunk on their own than with food (exception being very hearty and robust red meat...venison, NY Strip and Ribeye steaks, lambs, and stews)

Very loose pointer #2) High alcohol makes spicy food just taste "hot"

Very loose pointer #3) High acidity heightens the flavors of food, and balances the richness of fatty foods. High-acid white grapes (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc) and red grapes (Sangiovese, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel) can be great with food

Very loose pointer #4) Wines with "floral/spice" profiles- like Gewurztraminer- can really work well with highly-spiced foods (i.e. Pacific Rim cuisine)

Very loose pointer #5) Red wines with lots of jammy fruit flavors work well with smoky, sweet dishes like BBQ

Very loose pointer #6) Desserts need wines that are as sweet or sweeter than said dessert

Using these nuggets of info, I went out and selected 5 different bottles with the meal:


I thought about naming the selections from right to left, but wouldn't that just be downright silly? Anyway, here they are (from left to right, throwing no curveballs your way):

Trimbach Gewurztraminer (Alsace, France)
Chateau Ste. Michelle Pinot Gris (Columbia Valley, Washington State)
Clos LaChance Zinfandel (Central Coast, California)
Rudolf Müller Eiswein (Rheinhessen/Pfalz, Germany)

Okay, we took the Gewurz and the Pinot Gris to go with the salad. Just in case you didn't know, Pinot Gris and the more market-prevalent Pinot Grigio are the same grape. However, often when grown in Oregon or Alsace, France, the resulting wine is richer and heavier than a crisp, light Italian Pinot Grigio. Regardless, it was still a little light for the mustardy vinaigrette, which overpowered it. The Gewurz, on the other hand, had a spicy, floral nature to it that just worked with the dressing. Furthermore, Gewurz is a low-acid grape, so the lower acidity in the wine did not clash with the vinegar in the dressing. Winner = Gewurztraminer, and I'd try it again anytime with a mustard-based sauce.

Next, the plates of maple glazed pork and cheesy potatoes captured our attention. I opted for a Chianti (made from the Sangiovese grape) and a California Zinfandel. Why? Sangiovese has this hard-to-describe rustic quality to it: I always think it tastes a ton like dried cherries, and it also tends to have some herbal quality (and some say orange peel). Mostly, it has very high acid. It's also low in tannin, so it's not too structured for a mild meat like pork. Lastly, the Italian wines tend to be lower in alcohol (this one was I think 12.5%), so they really are food-friendly. So, this mild, rustic pork- a meat that works so well with fruit flavors- paired well with the cherry. The high acid cut through the richness of the pork and potatoes, and it also balanced the sweetness (think of how much sugar you put in lemonade, but it never tastes "too" sweet...same thing).

The Zinfandel was kind of a rare find. It only had 13.5% alcohol, which seems rare...you can always find ones that are 15%, 15.5%, sometimes even 16% (has to do with the uneven ripening of the grapes...another post). So, the lower alcohol helped with the food. Also, I LOVE Zinfandel with BBQ. It's got huge berry flavors and lots of spicy black pepper character. It's also got pretty good acid by nature. However, this one was a little subtle. A good pairing, but the nod has to go to the Chianti.

The last pairing was a peach cobbler in a hot, flaky crust with vanilla ice cream. Good enough by itself, but if you haven't been pairing desserts with dessert wines, you're definitely MISSIN' OUT. And Eiswein is especially ballin'. German for "ice wine", the grapes- usually Riesling- are left on the vine until very ripe; so late into the season that they freeze. They're picked and pressed while still frozen, the ice is removed, and all that is left is super-concentrated grape juice. Low in alcohol, syrupy-thick, and very sweet, you'd think this would just over-sugar the dessert. However, that's where the beauty of the Riesling grape comes in. Since it's naturally INCREDIBLY high in acid, even the very ripe grapes maintain enough acidity to balance the substantial sugar. What's left is an apricot, tangerine nectar of goodness. The acidity balanced the richness of the pie crust and ice cream, and just heightened the sweet flavors of the peaches. Bottom line: this pairing was "punch a Jonas Brother in the face" good. Try it. Try it now!

Okay. I know this post may have come off a little snobby. Sometimes, wine pairing can seem that way. But, if you consider yourself quite the gastronaut- with a great love for good food- you can have some fun pairing. When it works, both the food and the wine taste better. Even if it doesn't, you gain a little experience. And always remember that what works for you may not work for others. That's okay! You're taste buds ain't my taste buds. However, I've found my "pointers" to rarely let me down, so I hope you take them into consideration. You may find yourself cooking more at home and searching for great new combinations, rather than following the unwritten rules at the local Outback. And, at home, there really are no rules.

So, to clothing-optional meals, Cheers, Sláinte, Salud, Prost, Skål, Konbe, and Kampai!